Interesting idea, perhaps, but not in California, particularly where there is any wind, rain or compacted soil. Damaging that level of root system is a sure fire way to induce Oak Root Fungus as well as losing the tree to wind. The drought here has already stressed trees (and everything else) terribly, Eliminating portions of their root systems is going to set them back tremendously, causing even more damage. IF we get the El Nino this winter, you can be completely sure whatever rains we receive will be followed by winds. Reducing the anchoring ability of the roots is highly likely to result in the tree falling over. All those damaged, severed roots remaining in the soil are prime fodder for Armillaria. There hasn't been any root disturbance here, yet the oak next door; several of their huge xylosma; several of my dodonea; my old, large Mutabilis; a few of my large hibiscus, have all either died, died back or otherwise suffered damage from the fungus. I lost the established, main part of the Mutabilis. Only a tip rooted piece further along the fence line remains...and that only until the mycelium reaches it. This soil isn't compacted nor is it water logged. They water significantly more than I do as they attempt to maintain lush plantings, while I do not. No, I would not attack the roots of the redwood. There is far too much to lose, especially in such a severe, weird year. Kim

I have read that soil acts as good insulation, and so heat from under the tank doesn't do that much good with a lot of soil. A way to remedy this is to change the land profile by cutting out a portion to become a pond. This eliminates the soil in that area, such that heat is free to come up from below. This will also tend to increase humidity. However, I don't know whether you need higher humidity than that or not. You will likely want to leave glass off of some areas on the top of the tank, if you aren't doing so already. While this decreases humidity, you also must have some air circulation. If you have the area with screen and without glass at one end of the tank, the frog will be able to move between more humid and less humid parts of the tank to make itself most comfortable. -Jmcat

I don't know if this will help but....we have a fish pond/dog pond..no fish the frogs moved in. i noticed the tadpoles were stuck. I put a log across the top. as they got older they hung on the log. Later the frogs used the logs to go back and forth to the water. AS long as the water doesn't freeze to thick. you can wiggle the log to keep an air opening. With a pool you may have to use a large branch. Good luck, but remember we can unfortunately only cheat nature so much.

Greetings, I have a 22' X 24' greenhouse and late this summer I was given a couple green tree frogs that were supposed to take care of my fly, cricket, moth & aphid problems in my greenhouse. I know they are not water frogs, but I do have a pond in my greenhouse which helps keep the humidity quite high. My concern is this: I'm keeping the greenhouse at 40 deg in the evenings and it reaches 60 - 80 deg during the day. I have a heat lamp but they do not sit by the heat lamp. Since the temps started reaching 40 deg in the evening I've not seen the frogs at all. I'm wondering if they did not bury themselves in the soil of one of my plants. Do you think they hibernating? How long can they hibernate? They are not eating the crickets I'm putting out. Does anyone have any ideas on making certain my little tykes make it through the winter here? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. ~Tj~