Hi sprtphntc (if that is your real name ;-) ). I haven't been back to Gardenweb in awhile. I saw your post on the Seagull and thought I would chime in. I installed a similar product in my kitchen and posted some info on the link below. I thought the Trac 12 was better built than the Seagull and the mini track construction is better than the wire piercing method. But it is your choice, Juno might be more expensive. Some comments on your post.. - 600 watt transformer sounds like an outdoor landscape lighting transformer. Not meant for this application. It could exceed the maximum rating of the system, be sure to check. This could be a hazard if you are pushing too much current through too small a conductor. - 10W bulbs 4" apart will be very bright. Too bright. We put 10W bulbs about 8-10" apart and rarely crank them up to max. - Make sure your dimmer type matches your transformer type. Magnetic transformers need dimmers designed for them, these are usually NOT the dimmers you find in the big box stores. - Yes the transformer does hum slightly. You really need to try to hear it. I don't notice it. Torroidal (sp?) transformers may be quieter, but are usually more expensive. They are also a bit more efficient. - We LOVE our low voltage UCL. We also put them on top of the cabinets and it throws a nice light onto the ceiling. - Hard to install??? Depends. How handy are you? Do you have access inside the walls to run wire? - The biggest thing people overlook with low voltage is thinking it is no big deal and 'safe.' But what you may not realize is that the transformer steps UP the current by a factor of 10. So the quality of wire you use must be appropriate for the application, especailly if you are running it inside walls. Do your reseach and be safe. Here is a link that might be useful: Juno Trac 12

Hi, I have Seagull Ambience, and I like the color of the light, the intensity (I have a 10w bulb about every 8" average) and in 5 years I have only had one bulb go out. In comparison, I've had to replace all of the 20w halogens (4 of them) in the thermador vent hood in that same time period. (and replace a section of in-cabinet rope light 4 times!) The U/C's have more hours of use than the hood. The warming effect is noted, but it's not perceptible at countertop level, just the cabinet floor. The "heat" hasn't rendered any discoloration to the cabinet bottoms, so it's clearly not in the temp range to bother the wood or the finish. Casey

I saw this thread of posts regarding Seagull (low-voltage) Ambiance Lighting. Here's some responses to several questions. 1. "Clear or frosted bulbs?" Personally I would suggest 'clear' for task lighting, 'frosted' if you'll be able to see the actual bulb. 2. "5W or 10W bulbs?" I use 10 watt for task, 5 watt (in some cases) often for behind glass doors. As a rule, I generally use 10 watt. 3. "I can't find stranded 10/2 anywhere, only solid copper?" For the actual wire where the bulb holders clip in, you must use their 'stranded 10-2 wire' (9373-12 or 9373-15 : 100' rolls), available in white or black (yes it is pricey). If you purchase another brand of stranded 10-2, make sure it fits the Seagull wire holder. 3a. NOTE: BY CODE, YOU MAY NOT RUN THIS STRANDED CABLE IN THE WALLS OF YOUR HOME. Rough wire using Romex. 4. "...Dimmers?" If you're using a Magnetic tranformer, you should use a magnetic dimmer. They do cost more money. Remember, you are dimming the line voltage to the transformer ... not dimming the low voltage output from the transformer. 5. "...Spacing?" General rule of thumb is one bulb holder every 4 to 6". 6. "Since this is low voltage, there is not requirement that you use Romex, which you will not find stranded." UNTRUE! You cannot (by Code) run the 10-2 stranded in the wall. 7. "Isn't 10/2 a little heavy? Is it a 20A circuit? I'd think 12/2 would be fine for in-wall." Your wire inside the walls should be 10-2 Romex for 12 volt systems and (can be) 12-2 Romex for 24-volt systems. 8. As suggested in one post, DO make sure your low voltage output is properly fused. Just because it's low-voltage, don't think that it can't be dangerous. 9. Break up your 'homeruns'. For example: If you have lights to the left and right of the sink, make 2 separate homeruns. Likewise, left and right of the cooktop, 2 separate homeruns. Don't try to run the entire kitchen low-voltage system on one homerun. Splice/Junctions: You aren't supposed to do any splices in the wall. The Romex comes out below the cabinet int a Seagull (9459-12, 9459-15) 'Compartment/Splicer'. This will splice Romex to their stranded.

I had the hardest time with UCL. I didn't like anything I saw and I really don't like the spot light effect of the individual LEDs on strips. I did try going on line to look at environmental lights but with a new build and being in a location where shipping is a problem, I decided there were only so many items I could obsess about. Then I saw the WAC UCL LEDme Pro at a lighting showroom and it had everything I needed. Good color, low profile, hardwired because that is what we are set up for, and the diffuser creates an even light - no individual spots. For a few hundred dollars it met all my requirements and the decision was behind me. They aren't installed yet so no picture but I know they will be just fine. Very clean, very simple. Our current UCLs (ALKCO fluorescent and very similar box design to the WAC) have been installed for 27 years, are still going strong and I use them every day. Keep in mind you will probably never change out your UCLs and you will probably never see or actually notice the light source. So make sure you like the beam spread and the color and you are set. Good luck!